Centipedes are not a typical pet, and that is precisely the appeal. They are fast, ancient, superbly efficient predators — and for the right keeper, endlessly fascinating to observe. They are also venomous, solitary, and strictly hands-off, which makes them a poor fit for anyone wanting an interactive animal.
This guide covers what centipedes actually need: the right species for your experience level, a genuinely secure enclosure, stable humidity, and a sensible feeding routine.
What centipedes are like as pets
Centipedes are myriapods — elongated, segmented arthropods with one pair of legs per body segment (millipedes have two, which is the quickest way to tell them apart). They are nocturnal, solitary, and predatory, hunting live invertebrates with modified front legs called forcipules that deliver venom.
The realistic upsides: they are quiet, need little space, eat a simple diet of live insects, and many species live several years. The realistic downsides: you cannot handle them safely, they hide for most of the daylight hours, and an escape is a genuine problem in a household.
They are a long-term commitment measured in years, not months. Go in informed.
Choosing a species
Match the animal to your experience honestly — this is the single most important decision you will make.
Scolopendra species
The genus most keepers encounter, spanning a wide range of sizes, colours, and temperaments across the globe. Research the specific species rather than the genus, as requirements vary enormously between them.
Giant desert centipede (Scolopendra heros)
A striking orange-and-black species from the deserts of the southern United States and northern Mexico. Unlike most centipedes in the hobby, it needs a drier setup with lower humidity and a dry substrate, reflecting its arid native range.
Vietnamese centipede (Scolopendra subspinipes)
Vividly coloured, highly active, and notoriously defensive. It needs a warm, humid, tropical setup and is best suited to keepers with real experience — its temperament leaves little margin for error.
Amazonian giant centipede (Scolopendra gigantea)
The largest centipede in the world, capable of exceeding a foot in length, native to northern South America. Spectacular, and strictly for advanced keepers: its size, speed, strength, and potent venom demand a large, meticulously secured, warm and humid enclosure.
A note on house centipedes
House centipedes (Scutigera coleoptrata) are the fast, long-legged species most people find in their bathrooms. They are far more often encountered than deliberately kept, and are rarely offered by breeders — so while they are small and less medically significant than the giants, do not count on finding one for sale.
Building the enclosure
Security comes first, and it is not optional. Centipedes are strong, flexible, and relentless at probing for gaps — a lid that merely rests on top will not hold one. Use a genuinely escape-proof enclosure with secure latches and no gaps at cable ports or ventilation panels.
Beyond that:
- Size — comfortably longer than the centipede’s full body length, with room to roam. Larger species need proportionally more floor space.
- Ventilation — cross-ventilation prevents stagnant air and mold without draining humidity.
- Hides — multiple pieces of cork bark, leaf litter, and rocks. A centipede without cover is a stressed centipede.
- Substrate — 2 to 3 inches of coconut fibre, peat, or a soil mix for most species; deeper for large burrowers. Use a dry substrate for desert species such as S. heros.
The substrate does most of your humidity regulation, so adjust its moisture rather than misting heavily. Monitor temperature and humidity with actual instruments, matched to your species’ native range — tropical species want warmth and moisture; desert species want the opposite.
Feeding
Centipedes are carnivores that take live prey — appropriately sized crickets, roaches, and similar feeder insects. Adults typically eat once or twice a week; a centipede in premolt often refuses food entirely, which is normal.
Remove uneaten prey, as loose feeder insects can harass a molting centipede. Provide a shallow water dish, and never use tongs close to the animal without care — a feeding response is fast and indiscriminate.
Handling and safety
Do not handle centipedes. Every species in the hobby is venomous, and bites from the larger Scolopendra are genuinely, severely painful — medically significant in some cases. These are observation animals.
Use long tools for maintenance, work slowly, and always know where the animal is before opening the enclosure. Keep the enclosure secured and out of reach of children and other pets. Treated with respect and housed properly, a centipede poses little risk.
Housing them alone
Centipedes are solitary and cannibalistic. Keep exactly one per enclosure — cohabitation reliably ends with a single, larger centipede.
Sourcing responsibly
Buy from dedicated invertebrate specialists rather than general pet shops, and confirm legality in your area first, as regulations vary. Look for accurate species identification, clear husbandry notes, live-arrival guarantees, and honest reviews.
Where possible, choose captive-bred animals: they reduce pressure on wild populations, arrive free of wild parasites, and acclimate far better. Ask about origin and breeding records before you commit.
Frequently asked questions
Are centipedes good pets for beginners?
They can be, with the right expectations. They are quiet, solitary, and low-maintenance, but they are venomous, not handleable, and need specific enclosure conditions. Start with a smaller, calmer species and research it thoroughly.
Is it ever safe to handle a pet centipede?
No — handling is not advisable. All species are venomous and bites from larger species are extremely painful. Enjoy them by observation and use tools for maintenance.
Can I keep multiple centipedes together?
No. They are solitary and cannibalistic. House one per enclosure.
How long do centipedes live?
Many live several years with good husbandry, so treat one as a multi-year commitment involving live prey, stable climate, and regular upkeep.
What is the difference between a centipede and a millipede?
Centipedes have one pair of legs per segment, move fast, and hunt live prey. Millipedes have two pairs per segment, move slowly, and eat decaying plant matter. See our millipede care guide for the other side.
How do I prevent escapes?
Use an escape-proof enclosure with secure latches and no gaps, provide ample hides so the animal settles, and always locate it before opening the lid.
Explore species profiles in the SpeciesVault Nature Database, or browse enclosures, substrate, and bioactive supplies in our terrarium shop.
Centipedes we currently offer
Black Leg Piece of Lava Centipede (Scolopendra subspinipes ‘piceoflava’) For Sale Price range: $375.00 through $1,030.00Borneo Blue Centipede (Scolopendra sp. ‘Borneo Blue’) For Sale Price range: $200.00 through $550.00Chinese Giant Tiger Leg Centipede (Scolopendra hainanum) For Sale Price range: $150.00 through $415.00Giant White Beard Centipede (Scolopendra sp. ‘White Beard’) For Sale Price range: $425.00 through $1,170.00Indonesian Cherry Centipede (Scolopendra dehaani) For Sale Price range: $140.00 through $385.00Millipede-Eating Centipede (Edentistoma octosulcatum) For Sale Price range: $400.00 through $1,100.00Mt. Merapi Giant Black Centipede (Scolopendra cf. dehaani) For Sale Price range: $275.00 through $755.00Orange Leg Mt. Merapi Centipede (Scolopendra cf. dehaani) For Sale Price range: $265.00 through $730.00Piece of Lava Centipede (Scolopendra subspinipes ‘piceoflava’) For Sale Price range: $325.00 through $895.00Red Dragon Centipede (Scolopendra dehaani) For Sale Price range: $150.00 through $415.00